June 29, 2004

By: Ester Moses
Website: http://www.1st-in-cosmetics.com

Uniqema introduces Arlatone LC, a new optimized system for providing liquid crystals emulsions

Uniqema announced the introduction of a new emulsifier that promises to provide formulators of skin care products with a range of new benefits. New Arlatone LC is a formulating ingredient that can deliver highly stable emulsions with a virtually unlimited set of ingredients, easily and quickly.

Traditional concerns about the hydrophilic/lipophilic balance values of oils used in formulating are unnecessary with Arlatone LC - meaning more rapid formulation development on the bench and easier manufacturing.

In addition, because Arlatone LC promotes the formation of 'hydrosomes' or liquid crystals in a skin care product, formulators will be able to produce formulations with a wide variety of benefits, such as prolonged hydration, controlled release of actives, effective control of transepidermal water loss and a light, pleasant skin feel.

Primary applications for patented Arlatone LC will include moisturizing lotions and creams, sunscreen and after sun products, and a range of innovative products that can carry preservative free or emulsifier free claims on their labels.

According to Denise Jones, Business Manager for Uniqema, the liquid crystal concept, while it has been investigated and utilized by personal care companies in selected skin care products, has yet to be fully taken advantage of to create formulating, performance and feel options it delivers. To date, liquid crystals have been used by the personal care industry to deliver enhanced feel and moisturizing in skin creams - and they have done this very effectively.

But this only scratches the surface of how effective this formulating technique can be for the industry, said Jones. With the introduction of Arlatone LC, the industry will have an easy to use, high performing and cost effective way to formulate skin care products featuring liquid crystals, and to take advantage of a broader range of benefits than before - benefits like an expanded use of difficult to formulate natural oils and a dramatic reduction in product development time, she added.

Hydrosomes: Mimicking the Skin's Own Structure Based on naturally derived food emulsifiers, liquid crystalline phase stabilized systems or hydrosomes were originally developed to respond to consumer preferences for natural ingredients in their personal care products. Subsequent analysis uncovered properties in these systems that go well beyond their original design.

Hydrosomes are fully stabilized by a liquid crystal network whose droplets feature a multilayer structure of lipids and water. This structure is similar to the outer barrier layer of our skin -- the stratum corneum.

The easy interaction between the lipids of the hydrosome and the skin means that products featuring this system are likely to cover skin more completely, keep additional moisture on the skin and to stay on the skin longer. An added benefit is that products featuring hydrosomes have an excellent feel.

Functionality with a wide range of ingredients One of the most interesting features of hydrosome systems is their ability to stabilize a wide range of oils and to improve the way they feel on skin. When working with traditional oil-in-water emulsifiers, formulators have always needed to pay close attention to the HLB effect of the formulated ingredients and typically would use a series of emulsifiers to create a stable emulsion - in essence custom designing an emulsification package for each formulation.

With Arlatone LC, a single ingredient can provide highly effective stabilization of a formula regardless of the type of emollients and oils used. This should promote the use of exotic oils and traditionally difficult to work with ingredients. Arlatone LC can stabilize formulations than contain up to 40% oils. Typical use levels for Arlatone LC in a formulation range from 2% for milks and lotions to 4-5.5 % for creams.

Highly beneficial ingredients such as borage oil (used to deliver gamma linoleic acid topically) often have a greasy or unpleasant feel that can be hidden in a hydrosome platform. Ideal applications for hydrosomes are facial moisturizers that are non-greasy and have durability, inorganic sunscreens and hand products with real resistance to wash-off. Table 1 lists a range of potential applications for Arlatone LC.

About The Author:

Ester Moses is a successful author and regular contributor to http://www.1st-in-cosmetics.com.  Tips on skin care, hair care and beauty products to bring out natural beauty.