HAPPI: Special effects in colour cosmetics

New product development took a leap forward in 2003 in the area of color cosmetics with a number of innovative formulation concepts. Imogen Matthews, consultant to in-cosmetics, analyses the latest European market trends incolor cosmetics and highlights some of last year ’s most interesting new launches.

According to research company Euromonitor, the color cosmetics market in Western Europe was valued at €6.6bn in 2003, up a 1.8% year on year. The UK leads the Western Europe color market in turnover terms, followed by France and Germany, which between them account for over half of all value sales.

Claire Briney, analyst for Euromonitor observes that the market is and always will be heavily influenced by fashion trends and says: In 2003, there was a return to emphasis on the eyes. Magazines advised women to go for smoky eyes with kohl eye liner, mascara and dark eye shadows. Manufacturers accommodated with a raft of new eye launches including Double Extension mascara from L’Oreal, Extreme Definition mascara from Rimmel and Roller Colour eye shadow from Maybelline.

Special effects came to the fore in the cosmetics market last year with a strong emphasis on shimmer and multi-tonal shades. L’Oreal Paris’ Color Appeal Holographic is formulated with interferential color pigments composed of multiple layers which respond to changes in the light.

In the premium sector, Prescriptives launched Moonbeam Reflective Gloss in March 2004, which utilizes new pigment technology that enhances the light reflective qualities of the lip gloss, creating a super shiny look with great texture. The formulation contains multi-dimensional curved pearls that create more surface area for light to reflect off at different angles, creating a fuller effect on the lips.

Value added benefits permeate all sectors of the color cosmetics market with many drawing on skincare for inspiration. David Jago, editorial director of Mintel’s Global New Product Database, observes: Many facial color products contain an abundance of skin caring ingredients, eliminating the need for additional moisturizing and toning products before application.

Examples of new product development picked up by GNPD include products designed to improve the appearance and condition of the skin and products with reflective properties which work to diminish the appearance of wrinkles and blemishes. Of particular interest are foundations which claim to adapt to various skin conditions, such as Max Factor’s Color Adapt, which is a colour foundation with the feel of a tinted moisturiser. It is also said to adapt to the wearer’s complexion for a perfectly natural result.

A similar product concept is Lancome’s Color ID, described as a self-adjusting color foundation containing self-adjusting pigments whose nature and proportion Lancome has adjusted in each color shade according to different skin types.

Briney sees a continued merging between color cosmetics and skincare with lipsticks ofering lip plumping and lip moisturising properties previously seen only in skincare. The final impact is dependent on how quickly this technology can be adapted on a large scale basis, she remarks.

Changing demographics are causing manufacturers to rethink how they position their products, as the European population shifts in favour of consumers over 50. Manufacturers are expected to continue to segment their ranges in order to boost sales, believes Briney.

More manufacturers will develop product lines targeted at older women. Ageing women may use more foundations and concealers to cover up wrinkles or discoloration.

However, today’s older woman does not want to forgo healthy, natural-looking skin in her desire to conceal the signs of ageing. Modern formulations can deliver a far more natural result, while disguising flaws.

Diorskin by Christian Dior, is a range of fluid and compact foundations for all skin types and tones which are compatible with the skin, allowing it to breathe while imparting a sensation of comfort.

The latest addition to the line, launched in March 2004, is Diorskin Pure Light Sheer Skin-Lighting Makeup SPF15, which claims to give an ultra natural, 'no make-up' look. This is achieved by the inclusion of the light essence complex, a subtle combination of enlightening pearly pigments with complementary colours, which are blended together to selectively catch and reflect light waves and re-configure them as micro-bundles of pure white light.

The 'no make-up' effect is achieved by the lightweight texture, consisting of 50% water and volatile silicones.

Today’s cosmetics are benefiting from developmental trends in other industries. Inspired by the qualities of Lycra in fabrics, Rimmel has worked together with Invista, to develop a special grade of the stretch polymer for its new range of Lycra nail polishes.

The unique flexibility of this material enables it to absorb impact and diffuse shockwaves back through the nail polish film to limit chipping and cracking. The Lycra interacts with the nail formula’s color pigments, smoothing the surface of the nail to minimize irregularities and maximise light reflection to deliver a high shine finish.

In tests, the formula proved to be 25% softer than traditional ones, so it moves with the nail for longer wear, and is 16.5% more slippery, making it more resistant to scuffing.

Euromonitor’s Briney observes a renewed interest in nail colour with technology leading to greater depth and variety of nail colour. Fashion dictates a move away from single tone and traditional colours to metallics and multi-tone, she states.

The transfer of technologies across industries is one of the most exciting developments for the colour cosmetics market and is likely to lead to new opportunities for innovation.

Also see: how to apply eye shadows

About The Author:

Kimberly Maher is a successful author and regular contributor to http://www.1st-in-cosmetics.com. Tips on skin care, hair care and beauty products to bring out natural beauty.