January 14, 2004

By: April Tom
Website: http://www.1st-in-cosmetics.com

New report exposes cruel farming of musk for the perfume industry

In a new report released this week by the World Society for the Protection of Animals , the cruel and primitive farming of thousands of wild civets in Ethiopia for their musk for the perfume industry is exposed. The report, 'Civet farming; An Ethiopian investigation', is based on an undercover WSPA investigation carried out into civet farms last year.

WSPA has since discovered that civet musk is used in perfumes by Chanel, Lancôme and Cartier. WSPA has also received admissions from other companies that they are unable to say if their products include civet musk.

WSPA's Regional Manager for Africa, Mike Pugh, who led the investigation commented, 'We discovered the existence of a medieval-like practice in which the most basic welfare needs are neglected. The exploitation of these animals to provide musk for the perfume industry is totally unacceptable.?

The African civet is fox-like in appearance and is a member of the mongoose family. Its musk, secreted from a gland at the base of its tail, has been prized for centuries by perfume makers for its distinctive odour and its ability to preserve the smells of more delicate fragrances.

WSPA's report details how civets are taken from the wild and made to spend the rest of their lives being kept individually in primitive wooden cages measuring just 3? x1? x1', roughly the size of a cat box. Their cages are so small that they are unable to even turn around until they have lost weight.

Civets are kept in rows of these cages in airless smoke-filled huts, where fires are left smouldering to maintain high temperatures, which farmers believe increase the amount of musk produced. Although temperatures plummet at night, no bedding is provided, and hypothermia is a common cause of death. Spilt food attracts flies, and maggots are often found in and around food containers.

One farmer told WSPA that almost 40% of civets taken from the wild may die in the first three weeks alone. Musk is taken every 9-15 days through a process that is so traumatic and painful that many civets refuse to take food and starve to death after musk is extracted from them for the first time.

Typically, the civet will be pinned down and its rear end pulled out so that the perineal gland at the base of its tail is exposed. The gland is opened up and squeezed and the resultant musk scraped out. This can take several minutes and involve injuries to the civet. There is no legislation concerning the capture or care of civets and wounds are left untreated.

More than 3,000 civets are kept captive on over 200 farms in Ethiopia, which is the only country known to export civet musk. At least 1000 kgs are exported to France from Ethiopia each year, 97% of which is for the perfume industry. The average amount of musk taken from a single civet over the course of a year can produce 10,000 30ml bottles of perfume. Exporters receive around $400 for each kilogram of civet musk, with farmers receiving about half that amount.

WSPA-commissioned laboratory tests of several popular fragrances showed the presence of natural civet in one of the world's most popular perfumes: Chanel No5. However, Chanel had already told WSPA that they 'no longer source natural civet'. Upon being informed of the test result, Chanel informed WSPA that they are currently using up their remaining stock of natural civet and no longer purchase the ingredient. Lancome have also expressed an intention to substitute civet musk in the near future.

Overall, WSPA questioned over 40 perfume brand representatives, manufacturers, distributors and trade bodies, finding that:

31 companies deny using civet musk, eg.Calvin Klein, Yves St Laurent. 10 companies were unable to confirm or deny that they use civet musk Three companies admit to using civet musk in their products: Chanel, Lancôme and Cartier (Cartier say that they do not purchase civet from Ethiopia). Just two companies have failed to reply to WSPA - Guerlain and Jean Patou.

Jonathan Pearce, WSPA Campaigns Director, said 'Despite our repeated efforts, it seems that a large proportion of the fragrance industry is reluctant to come clean on the use of civet musk. As long as it continues to be used, all consumers should be wary of the perfumes they buy and seek clarification from the manufacturers.?

WSPA is urging the fragrance industry not to use natural civet musk. In addition, it is asking consumers not to buy products containing natural civet and to write to companies asking for their policy on the use of animal ingredients and testing in their products.

About The Author:

April Tom is a successful author and regular contributor to http://www.1st-in-cosmetics.com.  Tips on skin care, hair care and beauty products to bring out natural beauty.