HAPPI: Profile of Lush

Lush, the natural toiletries retailer, was founded in 1994 by Mark Constantine, whose mission has been to make beauty products that are as natural and fresh as possible and to avoid using synthetic preservatives.Nearly 20 years on, the company has 195 retail outlets, 46 of which are in the UK, its country of origin. Turnover reached £31 million $49.7 million in 2002, up by 19% on the previous year. There are two Lush outlets in the US and the company is scouting for new locations in New York and Chicago.

Lush is a completely integrated retailer and manufacturer, allowing it to design its products and display them in a way which is a total departure from traditional cosmetics and toiletries retailing. Soaps are piled high on Provençal-style wooden tables like fresh cheeses, and "fizzing bath ballistics" are stacked up like fruit in a greengrocer shop. Customers can ask for soaps to be cut from large butchers' blocks which are wrapped in greaseproof paper bearing the best-by date.

Lush has always been pioneering with innovative products such as its bath bombs, solid shampoo bars and frozen shower gel, ideas which other companies have been quick to copy. However, it is in the area of fresh ingredients where Lush continues to stand out. All ingredients used are fresh and where possible very little is taken away. According to Lush, using the whole fruit or vegetable is far more beneficial than isolating a property, such as a vitamin, enzyme or mineral, only to add it to a cosmetic product in an effort to try to recreate its function.

Lush is constantly working with new ingredients, such as whole fruits, which are squashed and used in their entirity in the products. Sarah McCartney, consultant to Lush, explains: "We¹re working with papaya and pineapple because of their enzyme action which works as an excellent cleanser and exfoliator, but are too strong to be left on the skin." Enzynamite is a facial cleanser containing fresh papaya and pineapple in the Bio Fresh range and is recommended for younger, oily skin.

In 2002, Lush pioneered skincare formulations using whole fresh fruits to maximise the benefit of the ingredients at their most potent. Each cleanser, toner and moisturiser contains natural ingredients derived from carefully blended plants, flower absolutes and the finest essential oils. In addition, in some products Lush has incorporated fresh, organic fruit and vegetables in their whole form to harness the antioxidant, protective benefits of the vitamins, minerals, proteins and enzymes.

The Lush Bio Fresh range takes the fresh approach to its extreme. The recently reformulated products contain fresh fruit infusions and microbe-resisting essential oils but no preservatives. Served deli-style in refrigerated cabinets, the skincare products should be used up within a week of purchase. "Many cosmetics companies use the term"fresh", but we believe that very few of them can actually use the literal term to describe their products. At Lush, however, freshness has always been at the heart of our philosophy.", explains Mark Constantine, chief executive of Lush.

Solid shampoos have always been the backbone of Lush¹s business and the concept was patented by Mark Constantine back in 1982. Solid formulations offer a number of benefits such as the use of less product so there is less risk of irritation, a higher volume of essential oils, less preservatives and minimal packaging. Solid shampoos are bought by weight cut from large blocks which are a display feature in the deli-style shops.

This summer, Lush has developed a new range in collaboration with eminent trichologist Dr. Hugh Rushton and the company's own research into the effects of hard and soft water. Hard is a new shampoo for use in hard water areas and contains natural softeners which cut down the amount of detergent needed, thereby reducing friction on the hair and potential for damage. Soft, for soft water, uses seaweed and salt to build volume. According to Constantine: "If you get the water right, you get the product right."

Two new fresh, organic whole fruit based shampoos and solid conditioners have also been introduced to the Lush portfolio. The formulation is a potent fresh fruit blend balanced with light emollient oils to help protect and build strength and shine. Rehab and I Love Juicy use the enzymic action of the produce to digest grime and surface skin cells for ultra clean hair. Helen Ambrosen, Lush product creator, explains: "The surfactant in a shampoo actually causes friction on the hair. By using enzymes to dissolve dirt and grime, you need less detergent, so it is much gentler on the hair."

The solid conditioner, Jungle, incorporates a fruit blend which makes the hair shiny. The patent pending formulation includes butters and extra virgin oils, which help increase the tensile strength of the hair, protect against damage and promote the healthy function of the scalp. The butter base is richly emollient, but any excess is easily washed off so that the hair has bounce, volume and natural shine. Following on from the success of its solid conditioners, Lush has added a two-in-one shampoo and conditioner block which can be used in hard water.

All haircare products are handmade and carry a made on date, use by date as well as the name of the person who made it. Sarah McCartney states: "We aim for everything in the shops to be less than one month old. We believe in the fresher the better."

She adds: "We are working to create more solid formulations, because the less liquid is used, less preservative is needed."

Lush continues to set new standards in the world of fresh natural cosmetics with its pioneering formulations. "Lush welcomes the idea that something doesn't become a category till you have more competition," affirms McCartney. "We would love more brands to try the fresh natural route and are confident that no-one could do the same as us."

Also see: Blush Powders

About The Author:

April Tom is a successful author and regular contributor to http://www.1st-in-cosmetics.com. Tips on skin care, hair care and beauty products to bring out natural beauty.