Technology trends and delivery systems in skincare

Imogen Matthews, consultant to in-cosmetics.

New technologies in skincare are hitting the market thick and fast and are the results of extensive research and development by the major cosmetic companies into new ingredients and delivery systems designed to produce maximum efficacy. Imogen Matthews, consultant to in-cosmetics, highlights some key new technological developments in the area of skincare.

Aging solutions

The majority of new skincare launches address the skincare needs of the ageing population, which has been rising for some years and will continue to do so in the forseeable future. Understanding the aging process has been exercising the minds of skincare scientists in their quest to develop products specifically for older consumers. Cutest Systems, an independent product testing company specialising in the evaluation of materials which come into contact with the skin, held its first skin science symposium in Cardiff, Wales, in October, entitled "the seven ages of man", Professor Ronnie Marks, whose presentation addressed elderly skin, comments: "In cosmetics, there are agents which may help to repair the skin, such as topical retinoids. We are also learning more about the use of anti-oxidants to improve the appearance of the skin. Anti-oxidants will be of considerable importance in investigations into disorders of the skin, especially in the elderly."

In Europe, currently, every other girl born will celebrate her 100th birthday. Skincare that actively delays the appearance of skin ageing is a top priority for adult women. Companies, such as Clarins, are launching skincare treatments to address the needs of the older consumer. Clarins Super Restorative Serum targets women over 50 and is an intensive replenishing, lifting and renewing treatment for skin weakened by age-related hormonal changes. The formulation includes two plant extracts used for the first time in cosmetic products. Pueraria Lobata, an ivy, and Pelvetia, a seaweed, are both rich in isoflavones or phytoestrogens which help to reactivate the production of collagen and restore the skin's capacity to retain moisture. The serum also contains selenium, a trace element derived for the first time from the tomato, which is a powerful anti-oxidant. Selenium is reinforced by an anti-oxidant complex of buddleia, thyme, rosemary and wild teasel, while perismmon extract protects collagen fibres from glycation.

Olay Regenerist anti-ageing moisturiser line includes Procter & Gamble's latest anti-aging technology in an exclusive amino-peptide complex, proven to regenerate cells in the stratum corneum so that they behave more like new skin. "Peptides have been recognized for their role in wound healing but their efficacy in improving the appearance of photo-damaged skin has only recently been determined," explains Dr Alexa Kimball, assistant professor and director of clinical trials, dermatology, at Stanford University. "New research on peptides which stimulate skin's natural rebuilding processes are leading to the development of a whole new class of effective and at the same time gentler anti-ageing options."

Lancaster has been working on a cosmetic formula that not only protects but also supports the skin¹s natural DNA repair process. 365 Cellular Elixir contains Lancaster's patented RPF technology, a unique combination of vitamins and enzymes, which is designed to imitate the skin's own multi-level defence system, thus providing intensive protection against free radicals that damage the skin's DNA. The RPF complex is enhanced with polyphenol-rich mediterranean rosemary to optimize its anti-oxidant action, while fig, sugarmelon and pomegranate work to protect and fortify the skin.

Delivery systems for active ingredients

David Jago, editorial director of research company Mintel's Global New Products Database, has noted a large number of new technology-based skincare launches in recent months, but few boasting new delivery systems. "There has been no development on a par with liposomes, when they first launched," he observes. "Many brands talk about the science behind the products, but it is difficult to differentiate between those that are truly revolutionary."

This may change, following the introduction of a new delivery system for active ingredients called SpiraplexT by Arch Personal Care Products. Spiraplex is a method of encapsulation utilizing a modified polyglucose matrix where active ingredients are entrapped inside the matrix, like a molecular spring wrapping itself around the active, holding it in the interior of the particle. A protective shield of polyglucose prevents active ingredients from being damaged during high temperature processing, making it suitable for the manufacture of anhydrous personal care products such as lipsticks, powders and sticks.

No surgery skincare options

Despite the rise in popularity in cosmetic surgery procedures including Botox, most women prefer to strive for youthful looking skin through skincare products. Cosmetic companies have been quick to exploit women's nervousness to go under the knife by launching skincare alternatives. Parfums Givenchy, for example, has launched No Surgetics, an anti-wrinkle programme whose claims include a skin peel effect, a collagen-up effect and d'compress effect, which is said to relax facial lines as they would after a botox injection. The D'Compress molecule is a bio-mimetic peptide with smoothing properties.

"Soft surgery" procedures such as micro-dermabrasion, peels and lasers are accepted by some women as a normal addition to their skincare routine. However, potential irritation, let alone cost, is a deterrent for those keen to defy the aging process. Estée Lauder's latest weapon in its anti-aging armoury is Idealist Micro-D Deep Thermal Refinisher, a gentle at-home alternative to micro-dermabrasion. Its TripleSphere Refinishing System consists of three different kinds of polishing spheres in varying size and consistency. Microcrystalline spheres are soft, synthetic beads that help skin shed large, dry flakes; bamboo are medium-sized beads taken from the dry sap of female bamboo trees; precious micronized jade, the smallest of the trio, are skin-buffing molecules that provide a deeper and more intense polishing action. The formulation contains Estée Lauder's patent-pending encapsulated calcium chloride technology, which has a thermal action on contact with damp skin and helps to open up pores to prepare skin for a detoxifying and refinishing action.

The cosmetics industry can expect to see many more skincare launches designed to replicate popular cosmetic procedures. As long as women, and increasingly men, want to stave off the signs of aging, there will be consumer interest in ground-breaking anti-aging discoveries.

Also see: skin repair creams

About The Author:

Jenny Post is a successful author and regular contributor to http://www.1st-in-cosmetics.com. Tips on skin care, hair care and beauty products to bring out natural beauty.